Step by step on a detached cable stitch variation

November 14, 2008

Here is a quick tutorial on a detached cable stitch variation I mentioned earlier today in an post showing stitched samples. The one draw back to this photographed step by step is that is hard to see that I’m working in one straight line on this sample. So when viewing the photos keep in mind that although the needle and stitching thread are sometimes hiding it, I’m working everything along one horizontal thread.

I started over four threads back two threads.

sbsdcc11

Pulled through.

Please note the thread for the middle stitch may go over the first stitch or below it. I think the major thing is to be consistent so that both ends of the middle stitch are the same side of the first and third stitch.

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The step below is why I consider this a variation of the cable stitch. I think if I were doing a normal cable stitch, the point of the needle would be coming up at the same place the first stitch ended. The cable stitch is a great stitch as well as the chained border stitch. Neither stitch should be confused with the cable chain stitch, although perhaps some connection may dawn on me sometime later. 

 sbsdcc3corrected

I think a detached cable stitch would be fun to experiment with. It would allow a height variation for a center couched thread. I’m excited about the possibilities for weaving and interlacing as well.

This next step shows the middle stitch pulled through and the start of finishing the third stitch.

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Completed.

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If you saw the early sample post, you’ll already know that I experimented with a lot with variations for the first and last parts of this stitch. It’s a quick stable stitch so there is a lot of room for play.

Next scheduled post: Monday (us, west coast)


Eastern stitch daisy

April 25, 2008

This is a very quick step by step for the eastern stitch daisy I did the other day. It presupposes knowledge of the eastern stitch itself and focus on the variations. If you are not familiar with the eastern stitch Arts and Designs carries a nice group of illustrations in an easy to print pop up that you may access on this page. Many thanks to them for a useful glossary!

Here are the two straight stitches at an acute angle rather than at a right angle in the regular eastern stitch. Let the thickness of your thread and your desired fullness for the daisy govern the size of the angle.

 

Then I move out a little from the edge of the straight stitches to start the next part of the eastern stitch. Other than that this part of the sitch is worked normally.

 

I make the next two straight stitches for the next petal. The first of these stitches falls in the same spots as the second straight stitch of the first petal. I easy over one fabric thread, if the embroidery thread I’m working with is too thick to allow this comfortably. In this example, I’m using pima cotton on a twenty something count linen.

The start of the looping in the second petal.

 

Continue until you complete the number of petals desired for your daisy. I used straight stitches to fill in the center.

 


Mountmellick stitch: Day 1

February 29, 2008

The Mountmellick stitch is the new-to-me stitch that I’m all excited about. I didn’t find a step-by-step in a quick search of the web. I’m still not able to access Needlecrafter’s so perhaps it is available there, for any of you who are able to use that site. I’m still hopeful that this is a temporary situation or that only my browser is at fault.

To start this stitch make a small diagonal stitch “a-b” and then bring the needle up at “c”. Then as shown below, slide the needle under the stitch “a-b”.

m1a.png

Now pull the thread though until its snug against the diagonal stitch “a=b” but not distorting it. (I have to say my sample here looks like it is distorted but I think it’s because I’m using the scanner and laying this against the glass that has caused the distortion seen here.)

Now reinsert the needle as pictured below to make a vertical stitch “a-c”. 

m1b.png

Now this next picture shows starting the second stitch. Everything is done as in the first stitch. But because there is a little trick to the final part I’ve decided to show this second stitch through to that point. 

m1c.png

m1d.png

Below is the tricky part and it was hard for me to get a good shot at this. To make this vertical stitch go back to “c” and reinsert the needle inside the loop made as you went up to make the last vertical stitch at “a-c”. This means the needle will be inserted between that loop and the little loop over the slanted stitch at “a-b”. This is easy to see, I think when actually doing it yourself. Once this is done now move on to complete the second stitch as shown in the second photograph for the first stitch.

m1e.png

A very plain sample.

m1g.png

Below is an “off grid” doodle using some of the recent stitches I’ve been working with including the Mountmellick stitch. In this piece I’ve used it in two over lapping, horizontal curved lines below the top area of purple and light blue threads.

m1i.png


Step by step with Sorbello ? version 2

February 3, 2008

This is another version of a variation of sorbello in a step by step. My next post will be the fun part with some samples I’ve done with these two versions I’ve developed.

This version was not due to any concern for the stability of my variation of the sorbello stitch itself. (Referred to in this post as the third stitch in the first photograph.)  It is only an add on for more versatility with the stitch. Please don’t hesitate to leave a comment if you know a name for this version or you know it as another stitch. Any questions you may have about it are welcomed as always.

I started out with a straight stitch worked from left to right and hopefully the photographs will lead the way through the rest of the stitch.

ssbspurplea.png

ssbspurpleb.png

ssbspurplec.png

When making the step above do not pull the loop forming under the two legs of the stitch tightly. Allow the loop to be a little loose as shown in the next photograph. If it is pulled too much it can be loosened up but I found easier to find the comfort point and not have to adjust later.

ssbspurpled.png

ssbspurplee.png

ssbspurplef.png

ssbspurpleg.png

ssbspurpleh.png


Step by step with sorbello ? version 1

February 2, 2008

I’ve worked on another version of sorbello. This is primarily to stabilize the area that was concern me as I mentioned in an earlier post. Since I’ve possibly wandered over into another stitch there is a question mark in the post title.

I started out by making a straight stitch from left to right and then the photographs should lead you through. I’ve been really excited about the samples I’ve done once that area was secured. It may seem a little fussy to work at first. But I’ve found it stitches fairly easily. I’ll post some of the variations in the next post.

ssbsbluea.png

ssbsblueb.png

ssbsblued1.png

ssbsbluec.png

ssbsblued2.png

ssbsbluee.png

ssbsbluef.png

If you know this variation by another name, please, let me know. I want to be sure and assign the proper name to it if I need to make a correction. Thank you very much.


The Indian edging stitch from Anne

November 29, 2007

Last week I mentioned the new stitch that Anne Gailhbaud taught me. I first saw it on a photograph of some embroidery she emailed me. Then I saw it on a piece of embroidery that she had sent me. She had many outstanding things on this embroidery like the detached flower petals and the center work in the flower. But I was fascinated with a stitch that formed the lower edge. And she taught me how to do it. While Anne hasn’t given the official approval of the step by step because she is away, she’s seen some of my stitching with it and given that the OK. And she encouraged me to go forward and post this.

Here is a step by step. Please keep in mind that I’ve used a very short thread to help make the needle’s movements more apparent. I’ve tried to make the pictures tell the story so it may seem long but the movements are very fast and for the most part you can move into the beginning of the next step as you are finishing off the previous one.

iestep1a.png

iestep1b.png

iestep2a.png

iestep2b.png

iestep3.png

iestep3b.png iestep3backside.png (back side)

iestep4b.png

iestep5a.png

iestep5complete.png

iestepbeginnewstitch.png Starting the next stitch.

Update: It just occurred to me that perhaps I should include a row of of finished stitching here.

tstc48sbsierow.png

I hope you enjoy this change of pace post. If anyone wishing to try this stitch is feeling lost because there is no text, please let me know and I will try to put some of the steps in words or answer any specific question.

If you know this stitch and work with it or a variation of it please let me know. Somewhere in the next few weeks I plan to take a post or two and show ways to vary this stitch and post examples of Anne’s use of it, too.

Thank you so much for teaching me, Anne. I’ve enjoyed learning this new-to-me stitch very much.


Step by step on a knotted stitch

April 11, 2007

These are the how to steps on my “mistake” knot (see post directly below or click this link and read the second paragraph). Some similarities to the knotted cable chain exist and if it wasn’t for the way that thread in the loop to the right catches the tip of the needle in the fourth picture it would be a match, I think. And of course, minus the distance between the chain and the knot, too.

It starts out exactly like the oyster stitch

tstc15bvariationstart.png

(Due to the fabric (32 count) and thread there are 5 threads between the two insertion points where the needle is shown on this photo.)

Pull firm put not tight

tstc15bvariationstep2.png

Then slide the needle under the top portion of the stitch but not under the lower part of the stitch at the top.

tstc15bvariationstep3.png

Pull the threaded needle through until the loop on the right looks about like next picture shows. Now insert the needle exactly where the top insertion of the needle was shown in the first picture. Bring the needle back to the front of the fabric directly one thread down from the where the bottom insertion is shown in the first picture (Adjust this insertion point as needed for the fabric and thread you’re using. For a finer thread the same insertion point might be fine or if thicker perhaps down two threads). Catch the thread of the loop formed to the right with the tip of the needle and pull the thread from the needle under the tip of the needle as shown in the picture below.

tstc15bvariationstep4.png

Pull firmly but not tightly.

tstc15bvariationstep5.png

Now pull thread through, firm but not tight.

tstc15bvariationfinished.png

This is finished off as a single knot by securing one fabric thread under the last bottom insertion. But if going on to make an line of stitches then do not secure but use this thread as shown in the very first portion of the first photo. And then start into the stitch as shown there.

tstc15bvariationleaves.png The top leaf is smaller just because it is worked over fewer threads than the others. The leaves on either side were worked in opposite directions of each other. I didn’t see enough significant difference to change the direction but I’m sure for some critical work that might need to be done.

If you have any question about the step-by-step please let me know about that; I’ll be happy to try and clarify or revise as needed. Thanks!